The Backhouse

Chef Ju-i experiments with dry-aging and nontraditional garnishes on sushi.

The Backhouse approaches sushi takeout with the care and variety associated with a chef's selection. Its San Mateo offerings include omakase nigiri and sashimi boxes, bara chirashi, and bentos built around salmon or bluefin tuna. We like how that format brings a more considered sushi meal to the home table, with different boxes allowing diners to follow their own seafood preferences. Chef Jui Nguyen's approach also leaves room for creative garnishes rather than relying exclusively on traditional combinations. For a more hands-on meal, the listed do-it-yourself hand roll kit includes fish, rice, nori, and accompaniments for assembling rolls together. The Backhouse's appeal is the choice between an arranged sushi box and a shared activity, both centered on Japanese seafood and the pleasure of discovering different fish and preparations.